TAXCO, Mexico (CN) — Anyone familiar with the country might, at first glance, get the impression that Taxco is doing Mexico wrong. All the buildings are painted the same color: an effulgent whitewash that scarcely appears in other harlequin and picturesque tourism draws like Guanajuato and Oaxaca.
Then there’s the food. Enigmatically, the typical fare in this quaint mountain town tucked into the verdant slopes of Guerrero’s Sierra Madre del Sur, just a couple hours south of Mexico City, is just… OK. Taxco chefs admittedly have some stiff competition from the aforementioned destinations, but in a country like Mexico, one must keep up in the kitchen.
Still, give Taxco the benefit of the doubt, and you’ll find that it will pay off in the end. Keep looking and, like the sterling silver for which the town is celebrated, you’ll see that there is much to mine here.
Like anywhere else in Mexico, your first stop should be the zócalo, or main square. Taxco’s compact Plaza Borda bustles at sundown, when tourists and locals alike crowd in to snap photos, fly drones, scarf ice cream or just shoot the breeze as the sky turns black between the buildings. Towering overhead, the exceedingly embellished towers atop the Churrigureresque facade of the Church of Santa Prisca de Taxco are a lapidary Where’s Waldo of saints, cherubs and other pink limestone flourishes popular in New Spain at the time of its construction in the mid-18th century.
Around every corner you’ll find a silver store, and a salesman trying to goad you in, but the real deals wait for the weekend, when the Saturday tianguis, or open-air market, fills Taxco’s tight, winding streets and alleyways. Vendors are by and large honest dealers, but make sure the pieces are marked .925 or .950 before you buy, so you know you’re not paying too much for nickel or some other lesser metal.
Plan for a couple of day trips and pack a swimsuit and a pair of sneakers. You’ll need the former for the milky blue pools of the waterfalls at Pozas Azules, about an hour away from Taxco. The latter will come in handy for the massive caves at the Grutas de Cacahuamilpa. Part of one of the largest cave systems on Earth, these impressive galleries of stalactites and stalagmites measure nearly 270 feet high in some chambers. The Spanish-speaking tour guide will regale you with stories of famous Mexican films shot here and fun shapes people have found in the rock formations that took eons to grow. Several local tour operators run daily trips to both destinations.
During the Catholic observance of Holy Week, the days leading up to Easter, tourists throng Taxco’s winding roads to witness some unique local religious traditions. Solemn processions of hooded penitents slowly make their way through the narrow streets carrying crosses or large bundles of thorned bramble stems which can weigh as much as 110 pounds. Others attach chains to their ankles as they walk. The clink of their dragging over the cobblestone rings out eerily through the onlookers' silence.
While in much of Mexico the tastiest treats are found on the street, your best bet for dining options are tourist-focused places like Restaurante Casa Santa Lucía and the Del Ángel Inn, the latter offering a spectacular view of both the main church and the surrounding hillsides. Taxco is just a few hours from the Pacific Ocean, so the shrimp in Casa Santa Lucía’s camarones arrieros, sautéed in a mildly spicy chili sauce with shallots and poblano peppers, are fresh and flavorful.
Head to Rosa Amaranto for local delicacies like green pozole and pink mole, which gets part of its namesake color from the rose petals in the recipe. After dinner, get a churro milkshake at Chu-Cho, just down the hill from the Plaza Borda, and go to the square for some people watching as the sun sets. For late night tacos al pastor, the unassuming Tacos Juan Jr. on the highway that zigzags through town won't disappoint.
If you’re not on a budget, stay at the Hotel Montetaxco, perched on a ledge overlooking town. Even if you’re not staying here, the cable car ride up to the hotel is worth it for the views. The Hotel Posada La Misión is also a unique lodging option. Workers doing some remodeling there in 2013 made a fascinating discovery: a pre-Hispanic mine that visitors can now explore with the aid of hotel guides. So really, you don’t have to dig too deep to find treasure in Taxco.
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