HOUSTON (CN) --- Every Saturday morning Manuel Giron can be found cooking pupusas outside his Houston church. The national food of his home country El Salvador, Giron and his congregation saved up $250,000 and bought a lot where they plan to build a church by selling — three for $5 --- the thick, stuffed tortillas.
Pupusas have helped Giron, 45, stay connected to the country he left as an 8-year-old in 1985 to reunite with his mother in the United States. For many Houstonians, they’ve been an introduction to the Central American nation.
“A lot of people walk by and say, 'Hey what are you selling?' 'We're selling pupusas.' 'What is that?' ‘It's Salvadoran cuisine.' 'Oh, OK I've never tried it.' 'Well, we'll give you one so you can try it,’” Giron said in an interview.
“And then you see them the next week and they're like, 'Oh I want a pupusa. I like that.' So I think it does identify us. And it doesn't let us lose our culture,” he added.
Over the last decade, thousands of residents of El Salvador and neighboring Guatemala and Honduras, a region notorious for government corruption, violence and poverty, known as the Northern Triangle, have come north in search of better lives.
Amid criticism from Republicans who claim his policies have encouraged large numbers of Central Americans to illegally enter the U.S., President Joe Biden has tasked Vice President Kamala Harris with crafting solutions to stop people from leaving their home countries.
Harris will meet with leaders of Guatemala and Mexico next week to discuss these issues.
But residents of El Salvador say immigration from the country has already substantially diminished thanks to reforms implemented by its popular President Nayib Bukele.
Border Patrol agents encountered 27,222 single adult Salvadorans in fiscal year 2016 (Oct. 1, 2015 to Sept. 30, 2016). The number dropped to 9,960 in FY 2020, according to U.S. Customs and Border Protection data.
Through the first seven months of this fiscal year, Border Patrol agents encountered 21,280 Salvadoran single adults, compared to 75,440 Guatemalan and 60,875 Honduran single adults.
The numbers for children entering the country alone also reflect this trend.
The five-year high for unaccompanied Salvadoran children encountered by the Border Patrol was 17,512 in FY 2016. It fell to 2,189 in FY 2020.
Through April this fiscal year, the Border Patrol has encountered 25,009 unaccompanied youths from Guatemala, 17,189 from Honduras and 5,586 from El Salvador.
So how have the lives of Salvadorans improved under Bukele?
Gangs are no longer extorting people with impunity, sniffing out any money-making venture and taking a cut.
Giron described how his relative caught the attention of gangsters.
“One of my aunts who lives over there, instead of using her stove to make her tortillas and her food, she goes 'I can save some money on electricity, I'm just going to get some wood and I'm going to make a fire outside,’” he said.
“She started on a Monday,” he continued. “On Wednesday she had a letter under her door saying, 'Now you are selling tortillas, so you need to pay us this much.' So she stopped. She goes, 'I either stop or they're going to kill me because they think I'm making money and not paying them.'”
But extortion victims who used to not report the crimes are now calling them in anonymously to police hotlines, encouraged by Bukele’s crackdown on gang members, according to Miguel Patricio, a North American expat with a long history in El Salvador.
“The National Police have arrested thousands of gang members since Bukele took office on June 1, 2019. In the first six months, over 9,000 gang members were arrested, most of them on charges of extortion. Penalties for extortion range from eight to 12 years imprisonment,” Patricio said.