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Thursday, September 12, 2024
Courthouse News Service
Thursday, September 12, 2024 | Back issues
Courthouse News Service Courthouse News Service

Mexico City’s propane vendors keep homes warm, restaurants cooking

The work can be risky, but the sight of propane vendors making their rounds is nonetheless an iconic part of life in Mexico City. And for one uncle-nephew duo, it’s a job worth doing.

MEXICO CITY (CN) — Propane vendor José Antonio Herrera and his nephew Diego Uvaldo Contreras Herrera start their days at nine and end at six. 

They follow the same route each day, snaking their customized Ford F-450 through central Mexico City. Antonio’s deep bellows of "gaaaaaaas!" echo off old stone buildings and alert residents to their presence.

In Mexico City — where there are no underground gas lines in most buildings — many restaurants and homes rely on gas tanks to heat homes or power kitchens. Hundreds of trucks like this one serve the metropolis, weaving their way through Mexico City’s urban fabric to make deliveries.

The work can be dangerous: Tanks are hooked up on the roofs of buildings, where staircases are narrow and elevators are rare. But the vendors are nonetheless a quintessential part of Mexico City life — and for their part, the Herreras enjoy the work. 

Antonio, 39, and Contreras, 19, serve a handful of neighborhoods that border Mexico City’s historic downtown, including San Rafael, Tabacalera and Guerrero. They do deliveries six days a week, selling various-sized tanks of liquid petroleum gas.

The pair work for Gas y Servicio de México, a company headquartered outside of Mexico City, picking up their work truck from the company’s lot every morning and dropping it off each night. It’s one of three trucks — all owned by another worker at Gas y Servicio de México — that serves these three neighborhoods.

The cylinders these vendors sell range from just five kilograms up to 90 kg. 

Until recently, the duo made most of their sales during their shift. That’s changed in recent years, as customers have started making appointments over the instant-messaging service WhatsApp.

The amount of sales fluctuates, with fewer sales on hot days — though the hundreds of restaurants and food stands scattered throughout San Rafael, Tabacalera and Guerrero rely on cylinders nearly daily to keep business going. "If we don't come,” Antonio explained, “they don't make money.”

On a recent July morning, Courthouse News joined the pair for a day of deliveries.

We were in the San Rafael neighborhood, one of the oldest former suburbs in modern Mexico City. The area used to connect with downtown via trolley, and most of its 19th century mansions and ranch homes are still intact. 

Antonio pointed out a yellow building that he was particularly fond of. "I was walking around this corner years ago and yelling 'gas,' and there was a music school out on a field trip,” Antonio recalled. “The professor said I was a perfect example of how to sing: using your stomach, not your throat." 

José Antonio Herrera, the other half of this two-man operation, stands inside the communal terrace of a client's home on July 17, 2024. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

As they continued their route, he gave Courthouse News an impromptu tour of the area, pointing out which buildings were featured in movies and telenovelas. Some streets were largely occupied by teachers, he said, while others were mostly home to journalists. 

As with many older Mexico City neighborhoods, some professions once concentrated in certain areas due to close proximity to universities, newsrooms, hospitals and factories — a trend that continues to some extent to this day. That’s left street names and neighborhoods bearing the names of professions, including the nearby Doctores Neighborhood, which houses the General Hospital of Mexico.

The San Rafael neighborhood has historically been an artistic enclave, and many of its streets are named after philosophers. The Tabacalera neighborhood, meanwhile, lies just on the other side of Mexico’s largest newsrooms. For Antonio and Contreras, this was all home turf.

"I've been doing this 20 years,” Antonio said — and working the route had built him inroads with the community. "My father did it in the same neighborhoods,” he added. “I'm here more than I'm at my own house. A lot of these buildings have been getting cylinders since they were built.” 

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Contreras sat in the bed of the truck, repainting cylinders silver to keep them looking fresh. “I like the job,” he said. “I get to go around the city.”

“It's more free than other jobs,” he continued. “I get to be outside.” Then he quickly added: “When it's really hot, it can be a pain.”

A view of the truck that hauls propane cylinders through Mexico City’s labyrinthine streets. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

The pair were running a little behind on their route today, Antonio said. But no matter: The day had been slow. 

"Sometimes it's like that,” he said. “Then, all of the sudden, we get a bunch of calls and we gotta race through the streets."

Some days can be downright dangerous. Antonio recalled the incident years ago that had landed him in the hospital for six months.

"I was bringing up a 90 kg cylinder, and a Saint Bernard jumped on me. He bit my stomach while I had the cylinder on my shoulder and my entire body twisted around,” he said. “You know [how] your intestines are like a knot? Well, I could see them coming out of my stomach because of the motion of my body carrying the weight as the dog bit me.” It took him a solid year to completely recover from his injuries.

Other propane vendors have fared worse. "I've seen people fall down the stairs and die carrying cylinders,” he said. “I had a guy just last month that got completely burnt up. A lot of guys don't have all their fingers, a lot of guys bust their heads open. Whatever it is, we got it.”

The cylinders have safety features on the nozzle. To prevent accidents, Antonio never reuses damaged cylinders. To check safety, vendors can mix soap and water and scrub it on the cylinder. If there are bubbles, there's a leak.

A couple hours in, Antonio stopped for a snack at the San Rafael fruit stand of Mario Rosas García. The vendor who has been in the same spot for 42 years and even knew Antonio's father.

"I cut the fruit right in front of you,” said Rosas García, who buys fruit at the Central de Abasto wholesale food market every day. “I don't try and trick you like some of the other vendors do. If you want this specific piece of fruit, you point it out, and I give you that specific piece of fruit.”

Around an hour later, they visited Antojitos Cons, a food stand in San Rafael.

Proprietor Constantina García Bautista receives one of the smallest-sized gas tanks available, ordering a new one multiple days a week. "They're good guys, I suppose," she joked as she handed Antonio a soda.

Constantina García Bautista at her food stand in San Rafael on July 17, 2024. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

As their shift continued into the late afternoon, it started to rain, and deliveries started to pick up. 

Contreras carted five empty 20 kg tanks to another company truck. Antonio went to the restaurant Taqueria Santiaguito to hook up gas tanks. "I've had no problems with these two over the years," said manager José Velázquez Hernández as he handed Antonio a glass of tepache, a sweetened fermented pineapple drink made in his restaurant.

The two split up to make deliveries. Continuing on foot, Antonio zigzagged through San Rafael. He pointed out more landmarks in the neighborhood, including a castle built for a count, an apartment building with French gardens hiding behind its walls, a small rooftop workshop that makes and fixes motorcycle motors, a music school and a restaurant famed for its beef head tacos.

A bit later, he returned to the truck. "Gaaaaas!" he yelled again. The engine started up, and the two vendors took off, continuing on their route through the labyrinthine neighborhoods of Mexico City.

Categories / Energy, International

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