French Chef Loses Michelin Lawsuit Over Star Demotion

NANTERRE, France (AFP) — A French court on Tuesday rejected a lawsuit brought by a star chef seeking to force the prestigious Michelin restaurant guide to hand over its reasons for stripping his restaurant of a third star just a year after he won it.

The court in Nanterre, outside Paris, said in a verdict obtained by AFP that Marc Veyrat had offered no "proof showing the existence of any damage" caused by guide's demotion of his Maison des Bois in the Alps to a two-star rating in January 2019.

The shock demotion came just 12 months after Veyrat's remarkable comeback after years of personal struggles, with the furious showman chef accusing the Michelin inspectors of making a “mistake."

He wanted the court to force Michelin to hand over its judging notes — a ruling that could have upended the world of fine dining by opening the door to lawsuits from other disgruntled chefs.

Veyrat, 69, had sought a symbolic one euro in damages, not least over his claimed depression after losing the star, but the court said he had not provided any documented proof of his losses.

The showman chef, known as much for his ubiquitous black Savoyard hat as his "botanical" creations from local herbs and produce, had already said he had no need of any Michelin accolades.

"I really don't need them," Veyrat told AFP shortly before the ruling, saying business was up seven percent over the past year.

"Even between Christmas and New Year's Day, we're fully booked. We've never been this busy," he added.

"At this rate, I wish they'd take away all my stars!"

Cheddar cheese?

Veyrat's stunning return to the world's restaurant firmament in January 18 was hard won, coming nine years after he was forced to stop cooking because of a skiing accident, and three years after his restaurant was destroyed in a fire.

After his demotion, he demanded a meeting with Michelin's international director Gwendal Poullennec, who had been named just a few months before the 2019 listings.

The chef said he was told a scallop's texture was "cottony" — Veyrat says it was in fact a dish of local fish — and accused of using English cheddar cheese in a soufflé.

"I have a lot of respect for Michelin in France... but they made a mistake in my case, and they need to recognize it," Veyrat told AFP.

Michelin's lawyers denounced the lawsuit as an abuse of the legal system by a "narcissistic diva" and demanded nearly $34,000 in damages and compensation.

"It's a question of respecting the freedom of criticism and opinion in our country," Michelin's lawyer Richard Malka told AFP last week.

That claim was rejected by Veyrat's lawyer Emmanuel Ravanas, who said the chef has long since grown accustomed to being judged severely over his pricey creations.

"We're not here to forbid criticism, we want to check that criteria exist and that they have been applied correctly," he told the court.

"You don't have the right to write whatever you want using the excuse of freedom of expression," he said.

The self-taught Veyrat has spent most of his life cooking in his home village of Manigod, 5,200 feet up the Alps near Annecy.

Just days before the November hearing, Veyrat was named one of the 10 immortals of haute cuisine by the rival French Gault & Millau guide, alongside legends like Alain Ducasse and Guy Savoy.

___

© Agence France-Presse

by Céline AGNIEL and Joseph SCHMID

Subscribe to Closing Arguments

Sign up for new weekly newsletter Closing Arguments to get the latest about ongoing trials, major litigation and hot cases and rulings in courthouses around the U.S. and the world.

Email *

Submit