SAN FELIPE, Mexico (CN) — When the tide goes out in San Felipe, tourists cede the beach to the fishermen. Rigs hauling boats constantly ply the broad strip of squelchy sand exposed by the receding waters of the Gulf of California until well after the sun goes down.
Visitors squeezing chipotle mayo onto shrimp tacos in the seafront restaurants are largely unaware that the hustle and bustle in the lower corner of their picturesque moonrise vista is part of an illegal international wildlife trade network that threatens the survival of the world’s smallest marine mammal, the vaquita marina.
Things haven’t looked good for the vaquita for decades, but the last few years have brought the species to the brink of extinction. Endemic and exclusive to the Upper Gulf of California, the pint-size porpoise has become an unfortunate bycatch of fishing operations in the area, primarily the illegal catching of totoaba.
Listed as vulnerable on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species, the totoaba is a large member of the drum family whose swim bladder is prized in traditional Chinese medicine for its supposed health benefits.
With totoaba swim bladders — also called fish maws — fetching around $4,000 a pound on the black market, the product has been dubbed the “cocaine of the sea,” and like a parasite the criminal element in the San Felipe area has grown fat on easy profits. A lawsuit brought by environmentalists against the U.S. Interior Department this past December claimed that totoaba fish maws have been known to sell for as high as $100,000 a kilogram, about $45,000 a pound.
Although vaquitas can become entangled in gill nets for shrimp and smaller fish as well, the nets used to snag totoaba are the deadliest, according to the world’s leading vaquita specialist Lorenzo Rojas-Bracho.
He and other biologists estimate that as few as eight vaquitas could be left. The IUCN has labeled it critically endangered, and little is being done to check the illicit activity that is pushing the species closer to the group's final classification: extinct.

“Corruption and its evil twin impunity are what is driving the vaquita to extinction,” said Rojas-Bracho, director of the whales team for the Canadian conservation group Ocean Wise.
Unfortunately for the vaquita — and for Mexican exporters of legal wildlife products — corruption and the utter lack of consequences for it have brought the situation to a critical point, despite the country’s best efforts to save the vaquita.
In late March, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) sanctioned Mexico for failing to rein in the illegal fishing and trade decimating the vaquita. Mexico presented an action plan it hoped would comply with CITES recommendations for protecting the vaquita in February, but it was rejected as inadequate.
Mexico outlawed totoaba fishing in 1975, a ban that remains in vigor to this day. In 1977, the totoaba became the first fish to be put on the CITES list of species whose trade is allowed only in exceptional circumstances.
The latest sanctions bar Mexico from exporting plant and animal products regulated by the CITES agreement, the most lucrative of which are mahogany timber, crocodile leather, tarantulas, pet reptiles, cactuses and other plants.
The prohibition caught these other export industries by surprise. A crocodile farm in Veracruz that exports the animal’s leather was still unaware of the ban in early April, and a mahogany exporter in Quintana Roo said his local cooperative is now scrambling to find more buyers in Mexico.
“We’re now in the worst situation possible,” said Rojas-Bracho. “The worst situation for the vaquita, the worst situation for the fishermen and, now with the CITES issue, it is also very bad for groups that export precious woods or other products on the CITES list.”